Food review: 'This food is orgasmic'

Charlotte Smith-Jarvis can’t get enough of the cooking at Watson & Walpole.

A salad of burrata, orange treviso and squash

I always think the marker of a good restaurant is effortlessness. That doesn’t mean there’s no effort. Far from it. It takes a hell of a lot of work behind the scenes to deliver a service where everything appears to flow seamlessly.

You drift in and give someone your coat. Water miraculously appears on the ta…