Review: The Eaterie @ The Angel Hotel, Bury St Edmunds
Suffolk Food Stories falls in love all over again with this hotel in the county’s foodie capital.
I feel a strong affinity for The Angel Hotel in Bury St Edmunds. I’ve stayed and eaten there many times over the years. My birthday when I was pregnant with my first child (where I hilariously needed a step to reach the bed). Anniversaries. Birthdays. I’ve even directed a wedding magazine fashion shoot at the property.
It’s the kind of place that draws you in. And, alongside the cathedral and colourful, gated Abbey Gardens opposite, is one of the most photographed and admired locations in the town. She is the grande dame, if you will, of hospitality not just in Bury, but within Suffolk itself. That’s not to say she’s staid or stuck in a time warp. The Angel has undergone multiple transformations within the last two decades and, I think, looks her absolute best right now.
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Behind her ostentatious pillared entrance, veiled with glossy vines of Virginia Creeper, The Angel Hotel cuts a fine figure inside, with a hint of Soho House about her interiors. In fact, when I sent a few snaps to my friends on WhatsApp shortly after arriving, I was inundated with replies, “Wow, where IS that?’, and “OMG, that is gorgeous!”.
While membership to Soho House will set you back a pretty penny, The Angel’s vibe is super relaxed. Yes, it is ‘showy’. The bar (amazing cocktails) is stunning. The lounge oozes glamourpuss vibes. And I stand by my description of the underground crypt bar/restaurant (The Vaults) as being one of the sexiest places to eat and drink in the county. But you really don’t need to put on the airs and graces. The family-run hotel’s USP isn’t to be found in its looks, but in its hospitality. Whether you’re dressing up for a date, or fancy popping in pre-cinema for a cheeky espresso martini in your jeans, you’ll be made to feel welcome.
That’s down to consummate pro manager Tom Slegg, who runs a tight ship of smiling staff - who keep the place running like clockwork, even on the busiest of days. A wedding party was dining in the restaurant with us during our visit (we weren’t crashing, honestly), but absolutely everyone in the room was looked after.
Speaking of dining rooms, The Angel’s main space, The Eaterie, is a gem. Leaning towards modern Mid-Century styling, it’s got swagger with its exposed brickwork, jazzy soundtrack, plush velvety banquettes and William Morris-esque soft furnishings. I love that the sash windows are framed by greenery, with flowers peeping up from their window boxes. It just ‘feels’ like a lovely place to be.
The menu is brasserie style, using local ingredients as much as possible, taking the temperature of the seasons and what’s best in Britain at the time, and adding a frisson of European and Asian influences.
Armed with a chilled glass of minerally, vanilla and ripe Ogen melon-forward Albarino, my meal began with a tangle of al dente linguine, with a clinging, creamy sauce that hinted at Thai spicing - coriander, chilli, lime. The crab dancing within it was sweet and fresh, and I could still taste it, despite the party going on in the bowl.
Sticking with Asia, on the other side of the table sat carefully handled slices of seared tuna carpaccio, dressed with a salsa that was citrussy and floral with green chilli, made light by teeny tiny brunoise diced cucumber. The soy dressing was umami and moreish and we absolutely could have done with a bit more of that. The perfect starter or light lunch for a hot summer’s day.
Tom’s choice (from the day’s wine specials) of Lebanese Merlot, which delivered Port and plum on the nose, with lingering off-dry notes of sherry, liquorice and blackcurrant, married with both of our main courses.
For my husband, The Pickwick Pie (a nod to Dickens’ visits to the hotel), which has become something of a signature dish for the restaurant, and having now tried it, I can see why. This is a proper pie. And a proper plate of food. Actually, I must say, both our main courses were complete dishes, you really don’t need to order sides because all the carbs and veg you need are already factored in.
The Pickwick Pie is a thing of beauty - not the lazy everyman’s version you so often see these days (a dish of something vaguely resembling meat swimming in gravy with a puff pastry lid).
Double crusted, glazed to a sheen and crimped at the edges, the filling of melting beef and tender chunky carrots was seriously ‘phwoar’. A belting meeting of red wine and meatiness.
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Garnishes included seasoned greens, root veg and silky mash that wasn’t drowning in butter. There were big smiles all-round.
I wasn’t too jealous though, as my own middle course was a little (actually it was quite big) stunner, paying homage to locally reared lamb. Lamb is one of those meats I consider a bit of a treat. And the way the kitchen had taken care over each cut, allowing its flavour to take centre stage, was sensational. The loin blushed magenta. There was a crispy ‘nugget’ of shoulder. But the stand-out for me was the belly. Such an underused part of the animal, and one that, in the right hands, cooked the right way (slowly to tenderise the sinew) is the most rewarding, combining crisp gnarly fat (like the edges of a chop) with the most lamby-tasting ripple of meat.
Everything else on the plate was executed to perfection too, from the buttery golden potato terrine, to a minted pea puree, sticky sauce, and braised, charred onion.
The wave of culinary greatness continued through to dessert. With a plate of miso caramel tart - the saline/sweet filling sitting atop caramelised pastry, with white chocolate cremeux, refreshing pink grapefruit sorbet, and a bitter grapefruit gel. And a wibbly, playful elderflower panna cotta, paired with macerated strawberries and fronds of lemon balm.
Every part of lunch was fabulous - from start to finish - faultless. Absolutely up there for me as one of the best experiences in Suffolk. If you want classic cooking with twists that will make you smile, this is the place for you.
And exec chef Arron Jackson…you’ve been hiding your light under a bushel haven’t you? Congrats to you and the rest of the kitchen. You’ve got something special going there.
Three courses come in at around £55 per person (not including drinks) and from Monday to Saturday lunchtimes you can enjoy the Fish, Chips and Sips deal of IPA battered haddock and chips with a glass of Laurent-Perrier La Cuvee Champagne. Fancy!
Follow The Angel Hotel on socials and sign up to their newsletter to find out when the next dining and wine events in The Vaults are. They are hot tickets so you’ll need to pounce on them as soon as they’re announced! Discover more about the restaurant and rooms, head here.
